Wednesday, May 7, 2008

and we're back


Wow. Wow. Wow. when I visited America everyone asked me if I felt culture shock. My answer- not really. I felt like i clicked back into my American self. But this time, after traveling around West Africa? Holy shit. I don't quite know what to say to give these countries justice. As soon as we crossed the border into Benin--it was green. Ghana, they have sidewalks. Crosswalks. Not only do public restrooms exist, they offer toilet paper. Heck, they even sell toilet paper on the street. Women in Burkina Faso, a country more similar to Niger, wear pants. Ride bikes. It was like just crossing the border into Benin was a whole new world. All in all it was interesting to see Niger in comparison to its neighboring countries.

But....Vacation was amazing. After a quick few days through Benin and Togo we reached the destination we'd been dreaming of for over a year: Ghana. Before getting to the ocean our first destination was Wli waterfalls. Barbara, Claudia and I did the roughly 2 hour hike to the upper falls. After an extremely strenuous 2 hour hike (wearing flip flops) we got a chance to swim in the waterfalls. Heaven at last. All while speaking what felt like a foreign language, ENGLISH!
Then on to the ocean, sunbathing, and just lounging on the beach. The ocean was amazing though, almost took Barbara out a few times as she came panting out of the waves. (Near death experience number 2.) We bummed around the coast for about a week then headed up to Kakum national park. Kakum has a canopy walk, consisting of 7 bridges up to 40 meters over the tropical rain forest, unique to Africa. Although I think it was a little above my thrill level as it turned into a major thunderstorm when we were in the middle! I think my knees are still shaking from the walk!

Finally we said goodbye to the coast and several long travel days later found ourselves in Dogon Country, Mali. We spent about 3 days hiking around Dogon, going village to village, up and down the cliffs. Dogon people have an extremely unique lifestyle as they live in the cliffs. Thousands of years ago they moved to the cliffs to escape tribal enemies. Originally it was the Tellem people that moved into the high cliffs, using black magic to climb up the walls. Although none of us were able to get into the high houses as today even scientists wonder how they got out there. Our guide was insisting they used vines but who knows. Being in Dogon country actually turned out to be the most relaxing, enjoyable part of our whole trip as Dogon people were laid back, friendly, and overflowing with culture.

But soooo good to be back in Niger. Made me appreciate Nigeriens. No hassles, no getting ripped off, no one grabbing me as i walk to market.

So it's back to speaking zarma and in 2 days back to Babagade.....

But before then, here's a Vacation by the Numbers:
(see Flickr site for more pictures)

# OF.....

...days on vacation: 26
...countries visited:5
...cities/villages visited: 24
...hours spent in buses/bush taxis traveling: 73
...Fanmilks consumed(i.e. ice cream in a bag): 62
...hostels without running water(or broken): 7
...number of screaming matches over taxis ripping us off: 7
...languages we learned to say hello in: 10
...hard boiled eggs consumed on a bush taxi: 27
...braids on my head: 204
...stamps in my passport: 14
...nights slept in a shared bed: 18
...times we almost ran out of the current currency: 3
...times Barbara almost died: 2
...West Africans that want a mohawk thanks to Claudia: a lot
...villages visited in Dogon Country: 7
...times I was hit on by men I didn't want to talk to: too many to count
...times getting ripped off: I don't want to think about it. Far too many.
Favorite place? A tie between Wli falls and Begnemoto in Dogon country


Two Weaves and a Mohawk drinking fresh coconut juice oceanside

Swimming at the Upper Wli Falls

The canopy walk at Kakum National Park

Crossing the ravine by a "ladder" in Dogon Country